Heilman's Beachcomber: A Model of ConsistencyBy Josh Valone
Tradition is something of a rarity in the digital age, where change comes as fast as the speed of ideas. The restaurant business is no different in this respect. Menus shift constantly to accommodate the latest diet fads and dining areas are carefully tailored to conform to the latest trends, only to be remodeled a few months later. Curiously, it is in this environment that Heilman's Beachcomber, which opened in 1948, continues to thrive, delivering a consistent experience in an age of change. Working at the Beachcomber since 1966, Jack Herr has been around long enough to know a bit about consistency. He's not the only one. Thumbing through his records, he reads off the names of staff members who have been here for decades. Jean Ankenbauer, a waitress since 1975, began working here when her children were still small and is now a grandmother. Ernest Bevins, head valet, has also been here since 1975. You can still find him chasing cars around the parking lot with the energy of a teenager. Edith Capen, dining room manager, has been on staff since 1984. Chuck Begert, bistro manager, was hired in 1985. Herr continues down the list, naming too many long-time employees to possibly include in one article. This uncommon loyalty seems to come as no surprise to him, if anything it is the norm. "Our staff is absolutely amazing, if we lose someone it's a personal disaster. We can almost read each other's minds, nothing has to be said because we all know what has to be done." When asked why so many staff members continue to come back after so many years, he seems almost puzzled by the question. "I'm not sure, everyone has their own reasons I suppose. I like to think it has to do with our focus on the customer. Everything we do starts with that. We've had staff leave and then come back, and when they returned that was the first thing they mentioned. Everyone here really cares about giving the customer a great dining experience. That seems to be rare these days." As the topic moves to exactly what makes up that dining experience, Herr becomes visibly more comfortable and his voice picks up an unmistakable enthusiasm. "Have you noticed how quiet it is when you eat here?" He asks, eager to elaborate on this particular detail. "That is something we put a lot of thought into. The ceilings and floors are soft to absorb sound, and we've chosen the tablecloths with the same thing in mind. We have 265 seats, and even when it's full every customer can have a conversation without ever raising their voice. These are small details, but they add up." Of course even the best dinner conversation would mean nothing without great food, a fact that everyone at Beachcomber is well aware of. "We take a lot of pride in what's on our menu. We make the same dishes the same way year after year because that's what our customers expect. But we're also open to suggestions," Herr explained. "Heilman was always searching for ways to improve the menu and new foods that customers would enjoy. He came up with idea of flying fresh fish in from New England in the 1970s, and we were one of the first to adopt that idea. Heilman also spent time in New York and came back with stories of dry aged beef, which wasn't really available down here, so we added it to our menu. It starts at the top, and he was always willing to try something new. If it worked, we kept it. If it didn't, it was still worth trying." Herr explained that Heilman's legacy was not restricted to improving the menu either; he also laid the foundation for yet another aspect of Beachcomber's longevity. "Heilman poured all of his profits right back into the restaurant. This was what he did. He was always careful not to overprice anything, just a reasonable markup to turn a profit. The idea of the neighborhood restaurant meant a lot to him, and we still are just a neighborhood restaurant." To underline his point, Herr reminisced about an incident that took place on December 25, 1980. "It was Christmas Day, and all of the sudden the gas went out on the beach. We still had 300 customers expecting a meal and we had nothing to cook the food on. So we called around and Merv Nabors brought us his charcoal grill. A lot of other locals lent us their grills as well, but I remember Merv specifically. We threw the steaks on those grills and made it through. That doesn't happen in a franchise chain, people wouldn't volunteer their help on such a busy day. But our neighbors did, and I think it's because we're really part of this area." Given all of this history, the final question is obvious. Can Beachcomber survive the coming years as it has the last half-century? Herr leans back in his chair a moment before he replies, "Heilman's son, Bob Jr., asked me that a few weeks ago, and I told him I just can't see an end. We have some obstacles to overcome, just like all the local businesses, but we'll keep working through them. I think we can manage." He pauses once more before finishing his thought, "I don't know the future, so I can't tell you how long we'll be here. But what I can tell you is this: we will be serving the same food and delivering the same experience until the very last day those doors are open."
|